The Edelrid Eddy is a single rope assisted belay device. I bought the Edelrid Eddy for two reasons, first to use when roped solo lead climbing and secondly as an alternative to the Petzl Grigri for use with novices (neither of which is recommended by Edelrid!).
|Best Uses||Sport Climbing, Indoor Climbing, Novice Peer Belaying.|
|Pros||Build quality, Anti-panic feature, Rope orientation.|
For roped soloing I’ve found it strikes the right balance between paying out smoothly and locking off when the rope moves quickly. When it does lock off mid move it’s simple to release with one hand. I use a relatively new 10.2mm Beal rope and feel that an older rope would probably cause it to lock up more.
If you’ve used, or are used to, a Grigri then the Eddy is going to feel very different. The rope runs through in the opposite way and the braking cam stays locked when loaded. As a result when lead belaying you hold the Eddy at an angle between thumb and middle finger, keep two fingers around the dead rope and use the fore finger to release the cam if it’s lock when paying out quickly to the leader. With practice the action of lead belaying becomes easy but put the time in to get it dialed in a safe environment.
When using with novices to ‘peer’ belay I like the fact that the rope is threaded the opposite way to Petzl’s Grigri as it means that when ‘bell ringing’ the person attached to the device doesn’t get pulled around like they can do with the Grigri. I also like the ‘anti panic’ feature on the lever where if it’s pulled back sharply the rope gets locked again. It’s very solidly built, but it’s locking action isn’t quite as quick or positive as the Grigri and it is a lot more expensive.
A solid device with many benefits, but they don’t come cheap..